The final touches to the weathering have been completed. A flay coat of Gunze clear flat was applied to the model to seal the weathering so far. Oil paint streaks were applied to the underside of the vehicle using both 501 Abteilung and windsor and newton oils.
Some metallic shine was added to the docking ring area using a 6B lead pencil.
Once I was satisfied with this effect I added some grimy staining on selected areas to match the reference pictures using Mig Productions Industrial City Dirt pigment. This effect was also concentrated on the areas around the mounting prong holes to suggest the dirty mechanism used to attach the EEV to the Sulaco.
This was again sealed in with clear flat.
Some additional detail painting was done using Citadel acrylic paints.
The entire EEV was now ready to be wired up and mounted to the flight recorder base.
I passed my wiring through the Aluminium tube and then passed the tube through the mounting holes in the EEV and the flight recorder.
The wiring was soldered together and tested, all working well (phew)! which was a relief.
All that remains to do is to capture a quick video of the lighting effect for you to see.
So stay tuned for a video post of this soon.
Until then,
Cheers,
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Weathering Part 1
The decals were sealed in with another coat of Tamiya clear acrylic to protect them and then the weathering could begin.
The whole vehicle was given a pin wash around the raised and engraved details using Mig Productions dark wash.
Once this was dry it was tidied up with a cotton bud dampened in odorless turps.
It was now time to add the remaining few details on the panels with the numbers and hand paint black and yellow areas with Citadel Acrylic.
More soon,
Cheers,
The whole vehicle was given a pin wash around the raised and engraved details using Mig Productions dark wash.
Once this was dry it was tidied up with a cotton bud dampened in odorless turps.
It was now time to add the remaining few details on the panels with the numbers and hand paint black and yellow areas with Citadel Acrylic.
More soon,
Cheers,
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Markings Part 2
I feel that this model would just not look right without some kind of tiny stenciling on the hull. To this end I discovered a sheet of red stencil decals that are inteded for Gundam models.
These were place on hatches etc following my reference pictures as well as some artistic licence of what I thought looked good and appropriate.
Many of the tiny stencills were added around the end access hatch doors.
Stencilling was also found on the top cryotube entry hatches. Some of the raised hatch parts were touched in with some Citadel blood red acrylic paint and a fine brush.
These decals are from HiQ Parts, the decals themselves are tiny and were printed by Cartograf and they performed flawlessly - a very impressive quality product, you can actually read the tiny lettering with a magnifying glass.
Finally I needed to add my home made custom decal, I carefully cut the decal to the exact size of the panel onto which it goes using the paper templates used to cut the actual parts as a guide. The decal went on very well and settled quickly. Because the decal is the same size as the raised panel its film edges are invisible.
More soon,
Cheers,
These were place on hatches etc following my reference pictures as well as some artistic licence of what I thought looked good and appropriate.
Many of the tiny stencills were added around the end access hatch doors.
Stencilling was also found on the top cryotube entry hatches. Some of the raised hatch parts were touched in with some Citadel blood red acrylic paint and a fine brush.
These decals are from HiQ Parts, the decals themselves are tiny and were printed by Cartograf and they performed flawlessly - a very impressive quality product, you can actually read the tiny lettering with a magnifying glass.
Finally I needed to add my home made custom decal, I carefully cut the decal to the exact size of the panel onto which it goes using the paper templates used to cut the actual parts as a guide. The decal went on very well and settled quickly. Because the decal is the same size as the raised panel its film edges are invisible.
More soon,
Cheers,
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Markings Part 1
Markings were added to the upper hull last night in the form of numerals.
The numbers are dry transfer lettering made by 'Lettraset', and they were cut from the sheet in a strip containing the numerals 1 to 9 and burnished onto the model with a special burnishing tool. It is essential to remember when using lettraset that once you have the number on the model to use the blue backing paper of the sheet to burnish over the number to really set it in place.
The numbers were then given a quick coat of Tamiya gloss clear to protect them.
The other job done last night was the painting of the detail on the mounting prongs. This job was done using Citadel acrylic paint 'codex grey' as it was a close match to the Tamiya neutral grey used previously. Citadel paint was used as this detail had to be brush painted and these are simply the BEST paints to brush apply, leaving no trace of brush strokes or imperfections.
More soon,
Cheers,
The numbers are dry transfer lettering made by 'Lettraset', and they were cut from the sheet in a strip containing the numerals 1 to 9 and burnished onto the model with a special burnishing tool. It is essential to remember when using lettraset that once you have the number on the model to use the blue backing paper of the sheet to burnish over the number to really set it in place.
The numbers were then given a quick coat of Tamiya gloss clear to protect them.
The other job done last night was the painting of the detail on the mounting prongs. This job was done using Citadel acrylic paint 'codex grey' as it was a close match to the Tamiya neutral grey used previously. Citadel paint was used as this detail had to be brush painted and these are simply the BEST paints to brush apply, leaving no trace of brush strokes or imperfections.
More soon,
Cheers,
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Painting Part 3, Neutral Grey
The panels and parts that were to be painted neutral grey were masked up and sprayed in Tamiya neutral grey.
The model was photographed under flourescent lights this time to try to demonstrate how the Floquil grime base colour changes with the lighting. In this shot notice how it looks less warm and more light grey than in previous shots.
More soon,
Cheers,
The model was photographed under flourescent lights this time to try to demonstrate how the Floquil grime base colour changes with the lighting. In this shot notice how it looks less warm and more light grey than in previous shots.
More soon,
Cheers,
Monday, October 24, 2011
Base Part 6 Weathering
Before I get to the base, the EEV base coat has been applied in several light coats to get a nice even coverage, I have now set this aside for a few days to let the Lacquer paint cure fully before I over spray with acrylics.
The flight recorder base has received multiple coats of Tamiya clear acrylic to hide the substantial decal film. Once all of this was dry, a Mig productions dark wash was applied to all of the corners and raised detail, particularly the ridges of the silver areas. Any excess was removed with a cotton but dampened with Mig odourless Turps.
Once this was completely dry the large expanses of orange were tackled. My aim here is to try to break up the monotonous colour areas and add some subtle variations in hue and intensity.
The weapon of choice for this was 502 Abteilung oil paints, I used rust, tritone fading and German grey fading. the orange surface was first dampened with some Mig odorless turps, then small dabs of each oil colour added with a small brush randomly to the surface.
The oil paint spots were then blended in with a clean soft dry brush, a streaking motion used for the vertical sides and a swirling motion for the flat top and bottom.
An excellent video tutorial of this technique by Fitchtenfoo is available to view here.
This is now allowed to dry and more can be added until a pleasing result is attained.
More soon,
Cheers,
The flight recorder base has received multiple coats of Tamiya clear acrylic to hide the substantial decal film. Once all of this was dry, a Mig productions dark wash was applied to all of the corners and raised detail, particularly the ridges of the silver areas. Any excess was removed with a cotton but dampened with Mig odourless Turps.
Once this was completely dry the large expanses of orange were tackled. My aim here is to try to break up the monotonous colour areas and add some subtle variations in hue and intensity.
The weapon of choice for this was 502 Abteilung oil paints, I used rust, tritone fading and German grey fading. the orange surface was first dampened with some Mig odorless turps, then small dabs of each oil colour added with a small brush randomly to the surface.
The oil paint spots were then blended in with a clean soft dry brush, a streaking motion used for the vertical sides and a swirling motion for the flat top and bottom.
An excellent video tutorial of this technique by Fitchtenfoo is available to view here.
This is now allowed to dry and more can be added until a pleasing result is attained.
More soon,
Cheers,
Friday, October 21, 2011
Painting Part 2 Base Coat
The base coat was sprayed on last night.
The colour I chose is a model railway colour again from Floquil called Grime, which is an interesting colour as it can display many hues depending on the lighting. It is best described as a very light off white / grey.
This incidentally is the colour used by ILM when painting the studio filming miniatures such as the Millennium Falcon and the Imperial Star Destroyer from the Star Wars movies.
More soon,
Cheers,
The colour I chose is a model railway colour again from Floquil called Grime, which is an interesting colour as it can display many hues depending on the lighting. It is best described as a very light off white / grey.
This incidentally is the colour used by ILM when painting the studio filming miniatures such as the Millennium Falcon and the Imperial Star Destroyer from the Star Wars movies.
More soon,
Cheers,
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